Welding remote for Miller 14 pin

I got tired of walking back and forth to the machine and I didn't feel like paying $200ish so I just made my own.

The box is some 1/8 flat stock I had in the scrap bin. I copied the wiring on the variable resistor from my foot pedal.
The foot pedal has a 1k resistor, but I only had a 100k resistor. Still seems to work fine. The redish blobs are capacitors. The foot pedal had them so I have them. I'm guessing it helps cut any noise you might pick up from the welding lead.

The switch is the contactor that turn off and on the welding output.

I also added red and green LEDs. The green light is between contactor's + voltage (A on the 14pin) and the ground (G on the 14pin). This makes it light up whenever the welder is powered on. The red light is connected between the contactor return (B on the 14pin) and ground. This makes it light up whenever the weld output is on. The resistors on the LEDs are 1k and keep them from drawing too much current and burning out.

For the cable I used regular ethernet cable. It's probably not a durable as the cable that would come on an expensive remote. It's cheap (about $0.10 per foot) and I already had some leftover of a 1000ft spool. It was too small to tighten up in the strain relief on the 14 pin connector. So I tied a knot in it. The knot tightens up well and won't break the wires where they solder to the back of the 14 pin connector. The box has a "butt connector" and I use an inline connector on the 14pin. This way you can easily replace the cable in the field if it gets cut.

There's a magnet stuck on the back of the box. You can plop the box in any position and it'll stay where you put it.




Here's the schematic.
The letter correspond to the pins on the 14 pin connector.
The 100nf capacitors can probably be replaced with just about any value.
You may need to swap the C and D connections to the variable resistor if the knob behaves backwards from what you expect (you turn the knob 'up' but the machine goes down)